Loch an Eilein and Loch Gamha

Loch an Eilein in Rothiemurchus has been voted the most popular and beautiful picnic spot in Britain, there is a beautiful circular footpath round the loch which gives spectacular views of the forest, the castle and the Cairngorms. The  popular walk may be extended by including secluded Loch Gamha in the circuit. 

Reflections in the calm water of Loch an Eilein, the castle is on the small island.

An iconic view of Loch an Eilein Castle, once occupied by  the  Comyns, the castle was more famously a stronghold of the Wolf of Badenoch, Alexander Stewart, son of Robert 2nd responsible for the torching of Elgin Cathedral in 1390, amongst numerous other outrages. The castle was used for the imprisonment of the murderers of Lachlan Beg Mackintosh for eight years before they were tried, found guilty and executed in 1532.  Before the level of the water in the loch rose a causeway connected the castle to the shore, in harsh winters when  the loch freezes over it is possible for the intrepid to walk to the castle. Until the 19th century ospreys nested in the castle ruins, however, despite the efforts of the Grant lairds to protect their nests ,the ospreys eventually succumbed to egg collectors and have subsequently been reintroduced to the Spey Valley. Ospreys are once again  a relatively common sight, nesting on the RSBP reserve at Loch Garten where there is a visitor centre and in wilder tree top spots. They are frequently seen fishing in Loch an Eilein and Loch Gamha where there are pike. There is a very clear echo between the castle and the point at which this picture was taken.

Fallen trees slowly decaying in Loch Gamha.
Loch Gamha, Loch of the Stirks, so called because it is said that in the days of cattle theives a few stirks would be tied up near the loch in the hopes that raiders entering the Spey valley would take them and overlook the main herd.

The footpath round Loch Gamha, as  a notice informed us, is not maintained, in other words it is unspoilt, but is in places, especially at the head of the loch, extremely boggy.

Chickweed Wintergreen, (Trientalis europaea) a delicate beauty, confined to damp places in the pinewoods, was just coming into flower. Grey Granite was particularly pleased to find both the wintergreen which she first found in Rothiemurchus and the insectivorous  Common Butterwort, another delicate plant of boggy areas. 

Common Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris)Butterworts compensate for the lack of nutrients in their boggy habitats by trapping  insects on the sticky surface of their leaves and secreting enzymes which dissolve the soft parts of the insect bodies enabling  them to be absorbed by the leaves. Crushed butterwort leaves may be used as a substitute for rennet in  cheese making. The plant gives the gullible protection against witches and fairies.

Nethy Bridge, June 2013

Grey Granite revisited Nethy Bridge. She and Rufus, quickly lapsed into the now established holiday routine of walks through the woods and along the Nethy. Dell Wood SNH reserve is a particular favourite, in places affording views over the Cairngorms to where snow still lurked in sheltered corries.

The trails in Dell Woods have been 'improved' since our last visit and several new paths are being constructed near Duackside. Despite this the woods remain tranquil and peaceful. 

Evening sunlight catching the beautiful new growth on the cowberries under the pines

Grey Granite and Rufus were pleased to share their favourite walk with Dr Anne who, having experience of the 'big five' when on safari in Africa, spotted this wart hog lurking at the bottom of Hammack's Road.

Wet areas of the wood have patches of Common Cotton Grass (Eriophorum angustifolium), this along with Spagnum moss was gathered during World War 1 for use as field dressings. Grey Granite has been reading, and recommends to other visitors to Nethy, The Story of Nethy Bridge by Jane Macaulay. This interesting publication includes a picture of a group of respectably hatted ladies pushing a a barrow heaped with spagnum which also  abounds in the woods.

A sign on a telegraph pole at Culvardie.
Red squirrels are a relatively common sight in the woods and are often to be seen snacking on  the bird feeders regularly stocked by the RSPB

Sunlight on the River Nethy. The path by the river was fragrant with Sweet Cicely and bright with the moon flowers of Leopard's Bane (Doronicum pardalianches)

Evening light catching the crown of an immense 'granny' pine

The first Dog Rose (Rosa canina) growing on the bank of the Nethy in Station Road