Friday 16 September 2011

Two Churches Walk, Dunvegan

Grey Granite,  Mike and Rufus decided to make the most of a glorious afternoon by visiting the coral beaches at Claigan, north of Dunvegan. However, the day being so fine we found that most of the tourist population of Skye shared the same notion and was trailing down the track to the beach. We eventually aborted the expedition in the face of a bull and several cows with young calves on the track. Instead we returned to Dunvegan and followed the 'Two Churches Walk on the outskirts of the village. This was interesting and much quieter. 

Our walk started at the 17th century ruins of St Mary's Church, just outside Dunvegan. A lintel on the North side of the church is inscribed IML 1694.

The ruins replaced a much older church, probably associated with Columba. There are spectacular views over to the Cuillins. There are several burial aisles and enclosures attached to the rectangular kirk. Seen here a balstraded enclosure dated 1735.

MacLeod's Tables and Loch Duirnish from the kirkyard

The ruins of the kirk and adjoining aisles are full of gravestones mainly commemorating the MacLeods of Dunvegan and their hereditary pipers the MacCrimmons. This plain stone, marking the burial place of the last chief, has strange wee offerings,a tiny bunch of heather and coins.


Duirnish standing stone, erected by the community to mark the turn of the millennium. The 5 tonne stone was dragged to the hill top using ropes, pulleys and muscle power.

Our walk followed a clear path which ascended the moor before entering woodlands. Here the path became very wet. The wood began as mixed woodland, hazels, birches and ferns with occasion conifers and many rhododendrons, before merging with  to a spruce plantation. There were good views over the loch, with glimpses of Dunvegan castle.

The path quite suddenly emerged by Dunvegan Parish Church.

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